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Arequipa – The “White City”
The
ultimate advantages
Peru is one of the most spectacular countries
to visit. In general, travellers from abroad enter through the capital
city of Lima
(mostly by air), or overland from Bolivia, through Desaguadero or
Yunguyo (both in the Lake Titicaca Region). Besides Lima, there are
four regions of particular interest:
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the
Trujillo/Cajamarca region in the North
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the "Callejón de Huaylas" north of Lima
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Cusco/Machu Picchu in the
central-southern part of the country
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the Arequipa/Lake Titicaca area
in the “south”
The “Departamento de Arequipa” (63,345 km2, with
approximately one million inhabitants) is located in the southwestern
part of the country. It is bordered to the north by Ica, Ayacucho and
Apurímac, to the south by Moquegua, to the east by Cusco and Puno, and
to the west by the Pacific Ocean.
The
ultimate advantages of Arequipa as the ideal venue to learn and practice
Spanish are its unique urban atmosphere and its year round
beautiful weather. Its moderate altitude of a bit more than two
thousand meters (considerably lower than Cusco, located at 3330
m) is such that it should not cause any “soroche” (altitude sickness). -
And not to forget: there are few places in the Hispanic world, where Spanish is spoken as
beautifully and as correctly as in Arequipa.
What the legends tell
Arequipa
is located at a height of 2330 m in a green oasis in the foothills of
the Western Andes. In reconstructing the town in the second half of the
16th and the 17th century, the Spaniards used the
“sillar,” a pearl-white volcanic building material which, when the sun's
light hits the ancestral mansions and the ancient churches and convents,
produces a glimmer, a magnificent glow, thereby causing people to
affectionately refer to Arequipa as "La Ciudad Blanca" ("The White
City").
With roughly 750,000 inhabitants,
Arequipa
is – together with Trujillo – considered the “second city” of Peru. Its
main square, the “Plaza de Armas,” is probably the most spectacular in
the entire country. The magnificent Cathedral and the shopping malls are
built in the colonial style.
There are two theories about the origin of the name “Arequipa.”
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Long ago the Aymara Indians settled here. In their language (Aymara) "ARI"
stands for "summit" and "QUIPA" for "laying behind.” Indeed, seen from
the Lake Titicaca region and the “Altiplano,” Arequipa is located
behind the majestic volcano Misti.
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The second theory suggests that the name comes from the language of the
Incas (Quechua). The legend tells a story about the Inca Mayta Capac,
the fourth Inca, travelling from the highlands, the Altiplano, heading
southwest and crossing the pass between the Misti and the Chachani. A
column of militaries, sacred virgins and nobles escorted him, and when
Mayta Capac saw the settlement that had never before been visited by any
emperor, he was amazed by the beauty of this place and the strategic
importance it held as a connection between the ocean and Cusco. He said:
"Ari, quipay!" translated as "Yes, stay!"
The foundation of Arequipa
(15 August 1540)
The Spaniards redesigned and (re)constructed the city
in accordance with their own taste and architectural concepts, beginning
on 15 August 1540. The result is one the most charming colonial towns in
the Americas. The 15th of August is still celebrated in
various festive forms within and around Arequipa through carnivals
and fairs for an entire week.
The climax of the
festival takes place in the evening of the 14th of August
with a splendid firework display on the Plaza de Armas. The wide façade
and steeples of the impressive Cathedral, and two story arcades that
grace the other three sides with palm trees, old gas lamps, and a white
stone fountain nestling in an English-style garden, probably make
Arequipa’s Plaza one of the most beautiful colonial Main Squares in the
New World.
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Under the volcanoes
El
Misti (the Gentleman, 5821 m) is not the only volcano around Arequipa,
but it is the most famous and elegant, and lies between two other
volcanoes, the Chachani (the Beloved, 6075 m) and the steep Picchu
Picchu (the Top Top, 5425 m). The pressure between the tectonic
plates of South America and the Pacific Ocean has created memorable
dates in Arequipa’s history: in 1687 and 1868 earthquakes damaged a
large number of historical buildings in the city, including the
Cathedral, which was damaged for a second time on 23 June 2001.
Main attractions
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In the city's historic centre you can admire a wholly
"arequipeño” architectural style. Formed towards the end of the 17th century, it is a blend of Italian baroque, Spanish
silver-plating, and Andean creativity. No wonder that Arequipa’s
colonial inner city is listed as a UNESCO Cultural Patrimony of
Humanity.
The Convent of Santa Catalina is the most important and
spectacular religious monument in Peru. It was founded in September 1579
under the name of Santa Catalina de Siena and was then expanded
in the 17th century. Shut off to the world until 1970, it was
built as a “city in a city” and is probably the largest convent
in the world. Nuns, sometimes more than 400 at once, lived there for
more than 400 years, totally cut off from the outside world. Santa
Catalina cloaked itself in mystery and silence until 1970, when a large
part of the convent opened its doors to the public. Today there are nuns
still living in the northern part of the complex. |
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Locals and tourists with or without a guide can
freely visit the parts that are open to the public. Everything has been
beautifully renovated and the little streets and squares are full
of colourful flowers and the walls are painted in fresh tints. Narrow
alleys bring you to the different parts of the convent, passing through
picturesque squares and odd living rooms with original furnishings on
the way. Many people can still smell the atmosphere of the dark Middle
Ages when visiting the dining hall, the square where nuns did their
laundry, the washing hall and the extensive library with an incredible
collection of books. Unfortunately the library is not always open to the
public.
Besides the Convent of Santa Catalina, there are other masterpieces of
religious architecture worth mentioning, among them La Compañía
(Jesuit Church) with the Ignacio Chapel, the Franciscan
convent La Recoleta, the Church and Monastery of
La Merced,
and the San Francisco Plaza, all encompassing a 16th
century colonial architectural complex.
Apart from religious monuments, Arequipa displays beautiful
colonial
buildings from both the 17th and 18th century,
of which the most important are the Casa del Moral, the Casa
Tristán del Pozo, the Casa de Irriberry, the
Casa
del Pastor,
and the Casa Goyeneche. Some of them are still private property;
but most have either been sold to banks or been reconstituted as
shopping malls and hotels. Some of these fantastic colonial houses can
still be visited. Pay special attention to the perfect workmanship, the
gardens, and the many statues and frontons.
Former picturesque satellite towns have been incorporated into Greater
Arequipa, such as Yanahuara (at 2 km from the Main Square),
famous for its churches built in Andalusian style, and Cayma
(at 3 km), well-known for its picanterías (typical local
restaurants featuring spicy “creole” cuisine), its beautiful 17th
century main church, and an extraordinary panoramic view of
Arequipa.
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The
surroundings
In the outskirts of the city, you'll find fascinating
villages with
stepped terraces dating from pre-Inca times that are still used
today by farmers from the districts of Chilina, Socabaya, Paucarpata,
Characato, and Sabandia. Other attractions are the Yura, Socosani, and
Jesus thermal baths.
Two of
the world's most spectacular canyons are found in the Departamento de
Arequipa: Cotahuasi, in the province of La Unión, and the Colca Canyon,
in the province of Cailloma. The latter is more than 100 km inlength, while its
depth begins near the village of Chivay, achieving its deepest point at
3269 meters. The Colca area is very well-suited for the practice of
technical sports such as rafting, kayaking, and trekking. A series of
Arequipa based tour operators offer reasonably priced two days packages
to the Colca Canyon, including transport, hotel accommodations (with
breakfast) and tour conducting (USD 25.00 to 40.00 per person, depending
on hotel's rating). The EDEAQ will help you to get you a suitable
arrangement in terms of schedule and budget and will inform you about
possible special offers.
The Cotahuasi Canyon, the deepest in the world with 3354 metres, is
almost twice the depth of the GrandCanyon in the United
States and it extends from the foothills of the snow-capped Solimana up
to the confluence of the Cotahuasi and Ocoña Rivers. |
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It is situated at
379 kilometres from Arequipa, a 12-hour drive approximately. The road is
full of a great variety of sceneries that increase its beauty thanks to
the vigilant presence of the snow-capped Coropuna (6377 m, Peru's
highest and largest volcano) and Solimana (6093 m). Visiting the
Cotahuasi Canyon requires at least four, probably five days (round trip
from/to Arequipa), but it is definitely worthwhile. The EDEAQ will
provide advise how you can organise your trip to one of the greatest
natural wonders on the planet. In Cotahuasi village, simple family-run
guesthouses plus one small hotel as well as rustic restaurants offer
their price worthy services to otherwise rare visitors.
On the way to
the Cotahuasi Canyon, do not miss a visit to the spectacular Valley of
the Volcanoes (Andagua region). It is an impressive National Sanctuary,
which consists of a valley and more than fifty small volcanoes of
different sizes, all of them formed during the Quaternary Era, offering
a unique natural landscape. This additional pattern will require three
additional travelling days.
The Salinas y Aguada Blanca Reserve is one of the principal reserves
dedicated to reproduction of the vicuña population, which is a
thin American Camelidae possessing the finest fur used in the highest
quality textiles in the world.
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The Pampa Cañahuas (a
National Reserve, formed by extense plains, created to protect the
natural species of the region, especially thousands of vicuñas), the
Sanctuary of
Mejía Lagoons (created to protect the natural habitat of the regional
fauna, it is one of the most important stations for migratory birds in
the Peruvian Coast), the beaches
of Mollendo (Mejía in particular) as well as the Camaná and Puerto
Inca beaches are all fascinating places worthy of a visit. -Please note
that the beach season is between mid-December and March. |
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Leisure and Sports
Cultural
events
The
school always makes its students aware of cultural and other events
taking place in Arequipa and is, if necessary, helpful in ordering
tickets. The most important local daily papers (El Pueblo, El Correo,
Arequipa al Dia) likewise inform about pertinent events; as does the
monthly publication "Boletin Informativo de la MPA,"
published by the
"Dirección de Cultura y
Turismo de la MPA.”
In
front of theatres and other relevant venues, shows and events of all
types are announced via flyers or posters; much is also learned by word
of mouth. They are - for the foreigner - usually quite inexpensive.
Sports
The EDEAQ can provide its students with short-term memberships in the well-equipped “Club Internacional Arequipa,” a first-class establishment within walking distance from home or downtown (15 minutes, or USD 0.90 by taxi). The membership fees (per person) read as follows: one day (Monday to Friday) S./ 10.00 (= approx. USD 3.30), one day (Saturday or Sunday) S./ 15.00
(= approx. USD 4.90), one week S./ 50.00 (= approx. USD 16.60), one month USD 50.00. – Facilities include swimming/use of pools, tennis, gymnasium/aerobics, soccer, track and field, etc. Please be informed that the “Club Internacional Arequipa” will charge a modest additional fee for the use of some of its facilities.
Well
worth mentioning: the most prominent
offspring of the “Club Internacional” started his career
as a ball boy at the tennis courts of the Club. 14 years after he
had asked to borrow his father's tennis racket, Arequipa-born Alejandro
Olmedo, in 1959, defeated the Australian Rod Laver in a
legendary final (6-4, 6-3, 6-4) to become the first Latin American
to win the Wimbledon Tennis Tournament.
Weekend
excursions and
car rentals
Depending upon the season and weather conditions, as well as demand, the
EDEAQ can organise weekend excursions at competitive rates or will
assist pertinent individual initiatives. In addition, the EDEAQ will
advise its students which excursion packages (Canyon de Colca, 1, 2 or 3
days, etc.)
are available and recommended.
The
EDEAQ further offers its students car rentals to/from Arequipa at
very competitive rates (national driving licenses and credit cards for
deposit are requested).
Please note that the availability of all touristic
services depends upon the season/weather conditions and/or outfitter
capacities.
And
what you should know as well …
Public Transport
The
easiest way to move in and around Arequipa is by taxi.
Although there is a quite efficient but often overcrowded system of
public transport (small and mid-sized buses), individual taxis also
cover such functions. Hundreds of small taxis, most of them the so-called
“Ticos”, constantly circulate the streets and roads in and around
the city, and are moderately priced (less than a bus or an underground
ticket in New York, London or Berlin). During daytime, the fares are -
depending upon the distance you travel - between USD 0.60 and USD 1.00.
Restaurants
Arequipa
hosts an impressive number of restaurants, ranging from simple snack
bars to sophisticated places whose price levels almost correspond to
Western Europe or the United States. It is, however, not difficult to
find popular but decent places where you can get a full course meal (often
with a soft drink included) for anywhere between USD 2.00 and 4.00.
The “menú turístico” offered in many simple as well as middle class
restaurants, although rather specious-sounding, is generally of good
value and attracts not only “innocent foreigners” but also local
customers.
Typical Dishes and
Beverages
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The food in Arequipa has achieved international fame. It has the
greatest variety available relative to the rest of Peru and is
distinguished by its fancy flavours, seasoning and use of "chili," which
is why typical restaurants are called picanterías.
Arequipa’s food is so diverse that there is a different soup each day,
presented as a broth or chupe (thick soup). The most famous one
is the Friday soup, the chupe de camarón (shrimp broth).
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The
following dishes, based on either shrimp, pork, guinea-pig, cheese and
hot pepper, are among the most well-known: ocopa arequipeña, rocoto
relleno, adobo de chancho, soltero de queso, pastel de papa, costillar
frito, cuy y conejo chactado, cauche and chaque. As dessert,
the queso helado is recommended (which has nothing to do with
cheese, but is just a delicious type of ice cream made up of milk, egg yolks,
sugar, cinnamon and vanilla), as is drinking the chicha de jora,
the local beer or anise of the region. The solid quality of Peruvian
wines (red, rosé and white, either dry or semidry) has to be mentioned
as well. The best-known labels are Tacama and Ocucaje.
And, as everywhere in Peru, a delicious meal starts with the national
cocktail, the pisco sour, a long drink based on “pisco” (grape
brandy), lime juice, ice, sugar, egg whites, and ground cinnamon.
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